Up and down the Arno

Paris. Wednesday.

And now for Florence. We much preferred this Tuscan city to Rome for a number of reasons, its size being one of them. Florence's concentrated historic center was far more navigable than Rome's sporadically located monuments. Furthermore, The Arno (the river running through the city) seemed to be more dynamic and in the middle of things, unlike its uninteresting Roman counterpart. We also found better food in Florence, but would put that more to chance, better research and the timing of our trip rather than hold the respective cities responsible.

Among the sights that stood out during our visit here was the Uffizi Gallery — even though we waited in line for more than an hour and a half. The gallery's corridors were adorned with portraits of various members of the church and the Medici family among others; as were the ceilings. Also, the Duomo was fairly impressive, especially the view from the top. The climb, however, was peppered with breathless tourists who seemed like they'd faint any second.

Another highlight was our meal at this restaurant (if you can call it that), Teatro del Sale. By far the best meal we had in Italy, the lunch buffet here consisted of cinnamon polenta (outstanding), three types of lentils, spinach and tomato salads, boiled cauliflower, pasta pomodoro (excellent once again), frankfurters, and a Florentine specialty — lampredotto. This was followed by another (nameless) meat dish, brownies, and coffee; a welcome cap to a lunch accompanied by unlimited trips to the cask of wine they'd tapped just for the occasion. Once begun, our lunch was punctuated by the excited yells of the chefs calling out to the diners with the arrival of each new dish. At the announcement, everyone would rush to the table to get a look and (hopefully) a taste of the newcomer while still hot from the kitchen. Quite an amusing concept, which we both rather liked.

While we didn't get to see David at the Accademia, we did get to these Donatello's version at the Museo del Bargello. All in all, Florence was far more pleasant than the Italian capital, and we're more likely to return there than to Rome. We weren't allowed to take pictures in the Uffizi, nor the Teatro del Sale, so here are a few of the Duomo and its surroundings.


The Duomo from up close, and afar.


Inside the Duomo.


A turret on the Arno, and the Arno by night.


On top of the Duomo, and the Uffizi by night.


Ponte Vecchio by night, and day.

A Roman Holiday

Paris. Tuesday.

First of all, apologies for our relative absence from the blog. December brought with it a slew of final papers, exams and perhaps the most important of all, our much-anticipated Christmas trip to Italy. We decided to head to the central part of the country, visiting Rome and Florence.

I've been to Rome once before, but that was just for a day and hence it barely counts as a proper visit. This time around, however, Cody and I walked around the city like no other. We yet didn't manage to see everything the city had on offer, but I think we'd need a month or so to cover all that. Furthermore, Italy around Christmas is far more subdued, and a lot of the places we did want to visit were closed.

During our various promenades around the city, we discovered that Rome is decentralized, not the easiest to navigate and imbued with far more history than it can handle. That said, highlights from our Roman sojourn include : Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve at the Vatican City — beautifully lit up with a massive Christmas tree in the middle of St. Peter's Square; the Parco Borghese — while we didn't get to visit the Villa Borghese, it was easily one of the nicer parks I've walked around; the Trevi fountain — impressive and larger than life; and Santa Maria della Vittoria —a tiny church near the main station with two stunning sculptures by Bernini as well as an impressive church organ.

My experience at the Parco Borghese merits a side-note: Cody decides that we need to enter the park from another entrance, not knowing that said entrance actually exists. Therefore, getting into the Parco Borghese required us to cross a freeway, jump over two sets of dividers, jump over another wall, climb up a flight of stairs, and walk through a hippodrome and back.

That little adventure aside, Rome disappointed me a little. I think my expectations for the Eternal City were higher than they should have been. Even the food wasn't outstanding. It was good, yes, but nothing to write home about. It also didn't help that every restaurant that was recommended to us was shut for the holidays. And lastly, I have to say the Tiber was one the most pathetic city-rivers I've laid my eyes on — slow, muggy and utterly unexciting. Check out pictures below, and read about Florence in the next post.



By the Tiber (l) and a statue on one of the bridges crossing it (r).


Parco Borghese (l) and St. Peter's at night (r).


In front of the Trevi (l) and in Santa Maria della Vittoria (r)


Monument to Vittorio Emmanuele II (l) and the Parco Borghese (r).


Santa Cecilia in Trastevere (l) and Cody in Piazza della Repubblica (r).


Nächster Halt, Bremen

Monday. Paris.

Located in the northern part of Germany, between Hanover and Hamburg, Bremen is a what most would expect to be a quaint German town. You may wonder why I visited this seemingly random town up North, when I could have easily gone to Munich, Frankfurt or Berlin to experience Europe's largest and most populous country. The answer — a simple (rather obvious) one — was to visit a friend from high school, Mitul, who goes to university there.

This weekend wasn't an easy one by any standard — both Mitul and I were glued to the news at any given instant, watching uneasily and anxiously as that 60-hour saga unfolded (read 'A Black Wednesday,' November 2008, for my immediate thoughts regarding that). It felt good to be with someone from Bombay during that time.

While we weren't keeping ourselves abreast of the events in Bombay, I did get a chance to visit the main town of Bremen. I was fortunate enough to witness the Christmas markets all around the Old Town, which are reminiscent of carnivals right out of the Brothers Grimm (interestingly enough, Bremen's mascots, the four musicians or Die Stadtmusikanten, are taken from a Grimm fairy tale). The Böttcherstraße and Schnoorstraße, two narrow albeit awfully touristy streets are lined with houses built any time between the the 1700s (Schnoorstraße) and the 1920s (Böttcherstraße - a blend of Art Nouveau and Gothic). Both, oddly enough, have a very similar air about them.

I also got to try some Christmas and winter specialties including feuerzangenbowle — warm spiced wine with burnt sugar; and caramelized almonds. Both were delicious.

Although the attacks back home proved to be a dampener, I thoroughly enjoyed my weekend in Germany, and hope I make it back there once again


The Weser River (l) and the Goethe Theatre (r)


Bötcherstraße (l) and off Schnoorstraße (r)


The town cathedral (l) and Cold War-era propaganda (r)


Die Stadtmusikanten (l) and the town cathedral (r)


The Schnoor (l) and feuerzangenbowle (r)


The Christmas markets